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Curls, curls, curls!

Curly hair comes in many forms; from the wavy Type 2s that we see in the European community to the glorious coils of Type 4s. While some might say curls are back, we say: curls never went anywhere! If anything, natural curls are being embraced by people of all ethnic origins, which is why it’s so important that stylists know how to cater to them all. Read on for some top curl-loving tips.

All curls are beautiful
Going through lockdown was definitely a period where everyone had more time to contemplate their hair. For some it was a time of revelation as they didn’t even realise their hair had any kind of wave to it; for others, it was a time when they could no longer rely on retexturising treatments as, little by little, their natural curls came through. Guy Kremer sees it as a positive time for all curls.

“One of the great benefits of lockdown was that many women embraced their natural texture for the very first time. Whether it’s a tight coil or a loose wave, all curls are beautiful and all curls can look incredible with the right products. Curly consumers have been ignored for too long, but now we are seeing a spectrum of products aimed at moisturisation and gently cleansing, giving clients shiny, defined curls. Not only that, perms are making waves amongst male clients, with many choosing to add texture and style to their hair.”

It all starts at the salon
Rainbow Room’s Suzie McGill says it’s important to cater to those with textured hair and that it’s not just the clients who benefit.

“It allows you to expand your client base and secure new and loyal clients. It can be especially difficult for those with textured or Afro hair to find a salon that has stylists that can work on their hair type, but having your team trained in this area of hair can be incredibly beneficial and can attract clients to your salon rather than your competitors. I do believe all salons should now cater towards all hair types and textures.”

Suzie goes on to discuss just how important the right products are. While some curly clients might love a big, brushed-out style, the key current curl trend is definitely definition.

“I love the OSiS+ range as it has some incredible products like Curl Honey Curl Cream, which works to define natural curls and waves, giving them definition and bounce whilst leaving them smooth and touchable".

“Textured hair also requires extra conditioning and it’s incredibly important to recommend that clients with textured hair use a good quality conditioning shampoo and conditioner. Schwarzkopf have a number of options including the BC Bonacure Hyaluronic Moisture Kick Micellar Shampoo and Conditioner and they also have an All About Curls range, which features a number of care and styling products for those with curly hair,” says Suzie, who also notes how important hair oils are.

Extra TLC
Oils have long been used by those with afro hair as a way to lock in moisture; in fact many afro-specialist stylists opt for a trifecta of products, usually consisting of a hydrating water spritz, followed by a curl cream, then a hair oil to seal the ends. Curls and braids last longer with this method as it protects the ends from damage.

Another longstanding way of protecting afro or textured hair is what’s known as protective styling; this might be braids or twists and they are particularly ideal for the colder months, when hair can become more prone to damage. Finally, for Gianmarco Catapano, of Angelo Seminara, when it comes to curls, it’s all about showing movement.

“With people working from home more often I think there is an increased demand for natural and easy solutions for styling hair and a lot of people are happy to embrace their natural movement".

“One of the first steps is finding the right product for the right hair texture, because when you find the perfect product, that is when you will learn to love your curls. I personally love for very defined curls, Goldwell’s Curl Control.”

Emma Simmons of Salon 54’s top tips to gorgeous curls.
#1: Cut out harsh ingredients like sulphates, heavy silicones and drying alcohols.
#2: Avoid rubbing your clients’ hair with a towel; instead use a micro fibre towel and if they’re washing at home, tell them to use a T-shirt; soft cotton is perfect for gently wrapping the hair up and absorbing excess water, Think less friction = less frizz.
#3: Never dry brush; always detangle when hair is protected with conditioner on.
#4: Always use products that shape and hold curls, reduce frizz, add shine and enhance elasticity.
#5: When Diffusing don't be tempted to scrunch the hair; too much handling while drying will disturb the curl and cause frizz. Instead use a hover motion and scoop the curls up into the diffuser as gently as possible. And always use the lowest heat setting!

Dreamy curls
For those without even a natural wave to play with, Ellie Smith of Smith England, gives her tips on creating the prettiest curls and waves!

1: Beachy textured loose curl
Great for those with long or short hair, you can add shape to hair with straighteners or irons, but don’t curl the ends and be sure to use a low heat. Shorts bobs and lobs look great with a loose, beachy curl.

2: Voluminous glam curl
Perfect for those with long hair, simply use mousse, hairspray and your trusty tongs. Then simply brush out the curls with a brush for a softer look.

3: Bouncy blow dry curls
Using mousse and hairspray and your favourite round brush, give clients a bouncy blowdry for optimum volume.

4: Heatless curls
A huge TikTok trend, heatless curls are created simply by braiding damp hair and then taking it out once it’s dry. Then simply separate and go!